A Favored Spot

One of our regular stops, a BLM site on the river.

Again this week we found ourselves parked next to a picnic table on the east bank of the Crooked River. If we’re not at home this would be the next place to look.

A quick scan before wading in

Some days all that’s required is time on the river. This works best if you’ve established a regular destination. With each relocation, a new favorite had to be researched . . . it’s always been like that.

Ancient lava flows make up the canyon walls

Growing up my family went fishing nearly every Summer Sunday. Depending on which sibling you ask, those outings were either fishing trips or picnics. Regardless . . . you get lunch and often cake for dessert.

Upper Big Creek CG, which actually closed before I left in the 70’s, was a common destination. We parked in second growth Larch overlooking the North Fork of the Flathead River.

Crooked River fishing means navigating over lots of rocks

Rock Creek served us well during time spent doing television in Missoula. When we moved to Troutdale, the fishing trips thinned because the Lower Deschutes was a much longer drive.

There are more than a handful of fishable streams within an hour of the place we’re currently occupying. While we do visit all at least once a season, the Crooked River, upstream of Prineville, holds the record number of visits.

“Over there looks like a good place to start…”

There are fish in these waters but a healthy riparian as well. While I hunt Redband Trout, JQ seeks a different angle.

Lined by basalt cliffs the Crooked River canyon is forested with ancient juniper and offers nice birding . . .  water fowl, song birds and raptors.

From here we mark seasonal changes with posts of current blossoms and stream levels.

Winter Road Trips

Trail buddies

Winter in Central Oregon took a vacation this week. In its place we got a false spring. Understanding this would be short lived, we headed north to Maupin and renewed the quest for a BWO hatch.

Weather is only an issue if you’re not prepared. 35 years ago we exchanged winters of snow and ice for ones with gray skies and rain. A move that required a shift from down to gore-tex . . . Malones and Sorels got changed out for Carhartt and Bogs.

Then came retirement and a move back into winter with snow as a season.

Once again we’re shoveling driveways, layering up and parking sorrels by the door. There is also a lot more sunshine and when you can choose the days you drive . . . winter weather is much less of an issue.

The Lower Deschutes shed it’s morning frost as the sun reached the canyon floor. It was a good day on the river. We hooked some fish, though there was no mayfly hatch this day.

Winter is a great time to see Common Goldeneyes

There was a raft of ducks riding the current and a Great Blue Heron stoically perched on a bare tree top.

Not suggesting weather isn’t a focus, it is, but it is only part of the planning. This year’s winter has presented us with more than the usual obstacles to trip scheduling. One day there’s snow bringing treacherous roads, but then a couple days later temps peak in the 40’s and the roads are bare.

A calm spot along the river’s edge, framed by birch tree catkins

We’re back in tune with snowy weather and enjoying the season.

The secret is to take advantage of these good travel days and venture out … we will.

Catching a Sun Rise

Coyotes yap and howl across the valley, while doves stir along Fort Rock’s face.

With winter subsiding, at least briefly, we venture further from home. This week we headed east, early enough to catch the sunrise at Fort Rock.

The Fremont Highway is a strip of two lane asphalt cutting across the northern corner of the Great Basin.

Rock face catches the first rays of sun

On the western side is a rock structure jutting out of the sage steppe. Fort Rock is an excellent backdrop for sunrise or sunset images, as well as a raptor nesting site.

Summer Lake, one of our favorite birding sites

An hour after sunrise we’ve captured images and drone footage and are back on OR 31 heading further east. Over Picture Rock Pass and down into Summer Lake valley. It’s the latter part of hunting season and there’s not a lot of birding at the wildlife refuge.

Common sight along Fremont Highway

We press on eastward through Paisley to Valley Falls, where we turn north skirting the edge of Abert Lake. Oregon’s only saltwater lake, and one of two in the great basin, its eastern shore is shadowed by a 2500 foot exposed fault scarp. Abert Rim is one of the highest fault scarps in the US.

Abert Rim looking south from the lake’s edge

All this comes together for excellent landscape photo ops. There is renewed awareness of the damage drought and irrigation has brought to this important stop over for migrating birds. Recent legislation will focus research on ways to restore alkaline lakes. Hopefully, it’s not too late.

Receding water lines mark issues with scarce water resources

Starting in April and running into the fall, there are a series of different bird species using Abert as a nesting site, or for just a short stop over. Our trip was a chance to scout potential birding spots. To that end, the calendar has been updated with future excursions, which of course will get documented on these pages.

Summer and Abert lakes are remnants of an ancient sea bed

For now we swing farther north along the western edge of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. We hit Highway 20 outside Burns and then take that road back to Bend and complete the circle.

Fishing for Small Mouth Bass

Long casts to holding water.

I may have mentioned adding a streamer box to our fishing sling pack. To fill that box, part of this week was spent at the tying bench working on streamer patterns. The other part was spent doing some on-river testing.

As this will require a laboratory we chose a small stretch of the John Day River.

The Eastern bank catches midday sun.

River access to the John Day is a problem. There’s no shortage of fishable water if you have a boat … well, and a permit.

Winter water levels expose gravel and rock.

To gain wadeable access (a stream bank within walking distance of a safe parking space) we chose a spot 40 river miles upstream from the Columbia . . . a place called Cottonwood Canyon.

Cottonwood bridge and J.S Burres SP are more than just boat take-outs. Where OR 206 crosses the John Day River there is a fairly new state park. In it you’ll find walking paths paralleling a wide gravel bank positioned opposite perfect holding water for Small Mouth Bass.

As a bonus, picnic tables sit under shade trees on a grass lawn right next to day-use parking. Only downside … it’s a long drive.

Throwing streamers to the far bank in search of Small Mouth Bass

Bass are warm water lovers, be mindful that warm is a relative term. There are plenty of reservoirs and lakes in Central Oregon with good bass fishing. Unlike their large mouth cousins, Small Mouth Bass take to moving water.

As the John Day’s water temperature rose the small mouth moved in. At roughly the same time there was a notable drop in seasonal Steelhead run. To some, bass in the John Day is an invasion, but it’s not unlike the introduction of German Brown Trout to western waters.

Willows define a space between water and sage.

Like Brown Trout, Bass are hunters thus streamer patterns are effective. Presentation requires stripping line over holding fish.

I was successful this summer in bringing them to the surface and trust me, the hook up is a kick. However, as the water temperature drops so do the feeding lanes, which is pretty much river fishing in the winter; regardless of species. For this, instead of tiny bead head patterns on dual rigs, you swing weighted minnow patterns about the size of your thumb.

Keeping an eye on the fisher

Winter on the Deschutes has Redside trout using folds in the current to hang out, while the river brings dinner.

Small Mouth Bass hold near the bottom waiting on small fish, their meal includes a chase.

Sunny days are as abundant as wind in this part of the state. Our visit was on a sunny day, perfect for a winter outing.

End to our day

The trip didn’t include any catching, but there was a lot of casting. More trips have been added to our calendar, as well as more time at the tying vice.

Finding Whychus Creek

Can’t read a map but wants to lead.
2nd growth Ponderosa sentinels

This week we thought it might be nice to take a walk. We don’t backpack, but we do often day hike. which in the winter can be tricky to find clear paths. A lot of people winter hike with snowshoes, and we’ve done that, but it’s not practical with Tip.

You Are Here.

There are literally hundreds of short trail loops within a half-hour drive.

Most include a scenic overlook, waterfall, or some natural wonder. This week we went looking for a stream we’d heard a lot about, but had never actually seen.

Circuitous route.

Wychus Creek headwaters in the Sisters Wilderness area winds through the town of Sisters and empties into the Deschutes River a few miles west of Terrebonne.

An overlook loop is part of a series of interconnected trails that allow you to explore the creek or backpack up into the wilderness area.

(Right to left) Sweeping views of The Three Sisters and Broken Top Mountains.

The portion we walked is not only popular. but well groomed. Its half mile loop swings by a walled off ledge above the creek.

From this point you are treated to spectacular views of the Three Sisters and Broken Top with Mt. Bachelor to the south and Mt. Washington to the northwest.

Mt Washington draped in clouds

On a different day . . .

We explored the area along the Middle Deschutes, about midway between Bend and Lake Billy Chinook.

Birder’s view

Most of the Middle Deschutes River from this spot extending upstream above Bend is a designated paddle route that often includes walking trails. One section of those paths runs through a wildlife preservation area.

Borden Beck Wildlife Preserve is along a section of this trail. Caught in the middle of a dispute between land development or riparian preservation it wasn’t until 2019 that this parcel on the edge of Lower Bridge road received some protection.

The Deschutes River winds through  marsh bottomland offering great birding at the right time of the year. This is not that time of year.

Sagebrush, juniper and blackberry line the trail

However, for a January day it was sunny and relatively warm. We got in a walk and figured out where to find the preserve’s parking and access point.

Both places have been added to the calendar for fall visits. After weeks of hiding from the frigid winter weather it was nice to get outside again.