Maupin, Oregon

Winter’s grip is easing

Spring officially started this week.

While we have no illusions this marks an end to snowfall, it does mean days are getting longer and warmer. When there is one of those warmer days we head to the river. We’ve made several trips to the Lower Deschutes this winter and have gotten more familar with Maupin.

Hwy 197 crosses the Deschutes River in Maupin

It’s a small town precariously occupying a hillside over looking the Deschutes River. It’s really returning to an old haunt and with a bit of exploring we discovered a stretch of river with easy access for all.

Maupin’s downtown mural art
If you’re here make sure to step inside

Highway 197 (Deschutes Ave.) winds it’s way in and back out of the canyon passing through the center of Maupin.

Where the highway crosses fifth street is the Deschutes Angler. . . . a flyfishing shop.

Among the hundreds of shops in river towns only a handful are must stop locations.

The adage “if they don’t have it you don’t need it” hallmarks these places. Deschutes Angler is on that list.

A fishing shop visit could replenish a tying bench or fishing pack, however mostly it’s a means to acquire current intel on local waters. Not all establishments are equal in these aspects, so when you find a good one it gets marked on the map.

The sun helps cut the chill but hasn’t been around enough to coax spring color back into the canyon walls.

A narrow road follows a section of the Lower Deschutes River
Keeping an eye out … it’s what BCs do

We need wadeable access so take advantage of pullouts along the Deschutes River Access Road.

Fishing alongside traffic comes with some limits. Tip is on constant duty, so if the road offers the shortest route between JQ and Jack he’ll be on it.

Fortunately he is a good listener.

The spot we settled into this winter offers lots of dog friendly access to the river. There’s a wide swath of river silt and grass cut with jagged outcropping of lava rock.

Hunting Red Band Trout on the Deschutes River

The scattering of trees and willow bushes at river’s edge seem bare from the road. Ducking under a branch to gain access to a new pool I notice bud sites and the beginnings of summer foliage.

Won’t be long before the banks are lined with fisherman and the water is full of rafters. By then other waters will become our regular haunt.

The Snows of March

Snow blown off tree boughs creates a winter scene
March snow loads the branches

Winter arrives in Central Oregon by late November, followed by a stretch of bitter cold after the holiday season. Typically, by now, we’ve moved through a false spring.

However, Second Winter never rolled over us this late in the year. If forecasts are to be believed, winter is over . . . but not before leaving a few inches of snow,  then ambling away ahead of a string of spring-like days.

Our snow storms are not California level, but frequently dampen any excursions we might’ve been planning.

That’s not to say we didn’t get out of the house, just not far from it. It is a house policy not to drive on snowpack or icy roads, unless a bakery is the destination.

West end of the pond is iced over

Sunriver HOA is always on top of snow removal. Once parked in a recently plowed lot at the Nature Center, we ventured out onto untracked snow.

Fresh snow enhances any photo opportunity. A bonus is checking on the swans and attempting to spot elusive otters.

Tip enjoying a bit of ‘off-leash’ time

The cygnets have grown and the pond was full of ducks, but we didn’t see any sign of otters . . . may be next time.

It may be another ruse, but we’re definitely taking advantage of the upcoming thaw. After all,  we already have stuff on the calendar.

A Favored Spot

One of our regular stops, a BLM site on the river.

Again this week we found ourselves parked next to a picnic table on the east bank of the Crooked River. If we’re not at home this would be the next place to look.

A quick scan before wading in

Some days all that’s required is time on the river. This works best if you’ve established a regular destination. With each relocation, a new favorite had to be researched . . . it’s always been like that.

Ancient lava flows make up the canyon walls

Growing up my family went fishing nearly every Summer Sunday. Depending on which sibling you ask, those outings were either fishing trips or picnics. Regardless . . . you get lunch and often cake for dessert.

Upper Big Creek CG, which actually closed before I left in the 70’s, was a common destination. We parked in second growth Larch overlooking the North Fork of the Flathead River.

Crooked River fishing means navigating over lots of rocks

Rock Creek served us well during time spent doing television in Missoula. When we moved to Troutdale, the fishing trips thinned because the Lower Deschutes was a much longer drive.

There are more than a handful of fishable streams within an hour of the place we’re currently occupying. While we do visit all at least once a season, the Crooked River, upstream of Prineville, holds the record number of visits.

“Over there looks like a good place to start…”

There are fish in these waters but a healthy riparian as well. While I hunt Redband Trout, JQ seeks a different angle.

Lined by basalt cliffs the Crooked River canyon is forested with ancient juniper and offers nice birding . . .  water fowl, song birds and raptors.

From here we mark seasonal changes with posts of current blossoms and stream levels.

Winter Road Trips

Trail buddies

Winter in Central Oregon took a vacation this week. In its place we got a false spring. Understanding this would be short lived, we headed north to Maupin and renewed the quest for a BWO hatch.

Weather is only an issue if you’re not prepared. 35 years ago we exchanged winters of snow and ice for ones with gray skies and rain. A move that required a shift from down to gore-tex . . . Malones and Sorels got changed out for Carhartt and Bogs.

Then came retirement and a move back into winter with snow as a season.

Once again we’re shoveling driveways, layering up and parking sorrels by the door. There is also a lot more sunshine and when you can choose the days you drive . . . winter weather is much less of an issue.

The Lower Deschutes shed it’s morning frost as the sun reached the canyon floor. It was a good day on the river. We hooked some fish, though there was no mayfly hatch this day.

Winter is a great time to see Common Goldeneyes

There was a raft of ducks riding the current and a Great Blue Heron stoically perched on a bare tree top.

Not suggesting weather isn’t a focus, it is, but it is only part of the planning. This year’s winter has presented us with more than the usual obstacles to trip scheduling. One day there’s snow bringing treacherous roads, but then a couple days later temps peak in the 40’s and the roads are bare.

A calm spot along the river’s edge, framed by birch tree catkins

We’re back in tune with snowy weather and enjoying the season.

The secret is to take advantage of these good travel days and venture out … we will.

Catching a Sun Rise

Coyotes yap and howl across the valley, while doves stir along Fort Rock’s face.

With winter subsiding, at least briefly, we venture further from home. This week we headed east, early enough to catch the sunrise at Fort Rock.

The Fremont Highway is a strip of two lane asphalt cutting across the northern corner of the Great Basin.

Rock face catches the first rays of sun

On the western side is a rock structure jutting out of the sage steppe. Fort Rock is an excellent backdrop for sunrise or sunset images, as well as a raptor nesting site.

Summer Lake, one of our favorite birding sites

An hour after sunrise we’ve captured images and drone footage and are back on OR 31 heading further east. Over Picture Rock Pass and down into Summer Lake valley. It’s the latter part of hunting season and there’s not a lot of birding at the wildlife refuge.

Common sight along Fremont Highway

We press on eastward through Paisley to Valley Falls, where we turn north skirting the edge of Abert Lake. Oregon’s only saltwater lake, and one of two in the great basin, its eastern shore is shadowed by a 2500 foot exposed fault scarp. Abert Rim is one of the highest fault scarps in the US.

Abert Rim looking south from the lake’s edge

All this comes together for excellent landscape photo ops. There is renewed awareness of the damage drought and irrigation has brought to this important stop over for migrating birds. Recent legislation will focus research on ways to restore alkaline lakes. Hopefully, it’s not too late.

Receding water lines mark issues with scarce water resources

Starting in April and running into the fall, there are a series of different bird species using Abert as a nesting site, or for just a short stop over. Our trip was a chance to scout potential birding spots. To that end, the calendar has been updated with future excursions, which of course will get documented on these pages.

Summer and Abert lakes are remnants of an ancient sea bed

For now we swing farther north along the western edge of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. We hit Highway 20 outside Burns and then take that road back to Bend and complete the circle.