Winter at Summer Lake

Trails and dikes wind through the Summer Lake marshlands

Foul weather is the reason most stated for not going outside … saw it on FaceBook, I think. Since moving to Central Oregon we’ve grown very attached to iPhone weather apps. Our weekly sojourns are guided by the trove of information available via this visual piece of software, now bundled with iOS.

Weather permitting, we like to take in at least one winter day at Summer Lake Wildlife Refuge.

Waterfowl forage and rest along these channels

Granted, peak birding season is March to May when a majority of the migratory birds are in the flyway. But winter weather doesn’t just affect wildlife, there are seasonal changes to vegetation around this marshy lowland.

Weather on the valley floor is dependent on and very different from Fremont Ridge to the south or Abert Rim to the East.

Snow covers sage and rocky desert terrain
Marsh wren tucked in some grasses

Summer Lake and La Pine are at nearly the same elevation with a couple of ancient lava mounds between them.

Our day starts in a pine forest as Highway 31 scales the southern edge of Paulina’s lava flow. At the Fort Rock junction scenery changes to sage. There is a distinct high desert landscape  along the southern edge of Christmas Valley, through Silver Lake.

From there it’s a gradual climb up the western slope  of Fremont Ridge. Looking back, west from Picture Rock Pass, you’ll get a better sense of that elevation change.

From the same vantage point looking east, Summer Lake sits in a wide valley butted up to the nearly vertical rockface of Fremont Ridge. The slope along the lake’s southern edge, and in the distance Abert Ridge, present great photo backdrops. Wind has scraped recent snowfall into crevices defining Fremont Ridge as it pushes up from the valley.

Freemont Ridge (right) skirts along this snow swept wetland

In the refuge’s marsh golden shades of reeds and grass jutting out of snow add texture, as well as color.

Ice crusted waterway

It’s the middle of duck season and RV’s fill the camp sites but we encounter no one.

immature Red Tailed Hawk

It’s a cold, sunny mid-week day and we’re finding lots of landscape photo ops, as well as a handful of raptor sightings. Just a typical winter’s day at Summer Lake.

The Art of Resilience

Frosted Aspen grove

High Desert seasons can bring extremes. Here in the shadow of the Cascades, we experience frequent weather changes. Within days of a snowfall, our sky can clear to a brilliant blue, ensuring even lower temperatures for the next few days.

We monitor the weather on a daily basis, and more so when heading out on an outing.

Interior of High Desert Museum

So now we find the day is sunny, dry . . . and cold. In this weather interval we visit places that offer relief from the chill. A regular spot on a winter’s day is the Oregon High Desert Museum.

The traveling exhibit that caught our interest, this fall, deals with disaster and homelessness.  A day pass, which can be checked out online from the Library, makes it practical to take in a single exhibit.

A desert tortoise, a porcupine and a family of otters usually get our attention. But there are regularly changed exhibit spaces, as well as an art installation in the lobby gallery which are often worth checking out. Online and emailed monthly newsletters alert us to interesting shows.

Floating emergency shelter to use in floods and tsunamis. Pod converts sea water to fresh drinking water.

This Fall they filled a gallery with concepts on Survival Architecture. This traveling exhibit came from a California nonprofit who asked artists and designers to offer solutions to a growing worldwide housing problem.

The fact that homelessness has been trending in the news is only part of it. Making use and re-use of materials was also a major theme.

 

“Cardborigami” from recycled cardboard is big enough for two people to sleep and can be folded small enough to carry.

As part of the project to make lightweight structures “Cardborigami” designer Tina Hovsepian offers a four step path out of homelessness. Something Oregon’s new Governor might want to visit.

    1. Provide participants with immediate shelter and privacy/ownership
    2. Provide connections to services and tools to re-integrate people into society
    3. Provide permanent housing
    4. Help individuals sustain housing through jobs and entrepreneurial opportunities.

There were lots of interesting design concepts around ocean and water based structures. Another used the biomimetic principles of a spruce cone to design self opening window ports.

On a more practical note Chilean architect, Alejandro Aravena offers, what I consider a brilliant concept.

“If there isn’t the money to build everyone a good houses why not build everyone half a good house … and let them finish the rest themselves”

Customizing a shelter to personal needs makes these cookie cutter buildings seem more like a home . . . giving value to the housed, as well as the homeless.

Cricket Shelter, a modular insect farm

The High Desert Museum is always a great spot to spark some discussion around nature, art and environment.

On top of being a warm and inviting, the museum is set on 135 acres of High Desert plateau which you can explore even on a cold December day.

A Quick Hike

Walking along the shore of Lake Aspen at Sunriver

Sunriver Resort is a great walking site, especially in the winter. There are literally miles of walking paths, normally filled at the height of the season . . . not so much in the winter.

For the most part, roads and parking areas are quickly cleared of snow. This means we can get in ‘our steps,’ without the need for snowshoes. With a dog, that is an important detail.

Winter trail

During the winter, we often venture to the Nature Center. From its location on the northern edge of the resort, a lightly used trail runs past the lake, under the road and out along the edge of an airfield. At the west end of the runway lies open fields, often filled with geese. Last year we watched a convocation of Golden Eagles just chillin’.

With no natural barriers, the wind is a constant. There are times the cold cuts through gore-tex and wool. The upside, the open trails allow you to see far enough ahead to spot bicyclists and walkers in time to get the lead back on Tip.

Trumpeter swan family
Wildlife watching . . . us

We’ve posted many times about the nature center and the lake it sits next to. The signets are full sized now and make for an impressive family group. The other inhabitant of this body of water, an otter, is much harder to catch a glimpse of . . . though we are always looking.

A beaver, or two, have started a logging operation on the south bank. There is evidence to suggest it takes time to chew down a five inch Lodge Pole. Made a note to explore for their construction site on another visit.

A Journey Through Time

The upper John Day River Valley, home to The Sheep Rock Unit of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument

We spent the last few weeks of fall exploring the John Day River. With its headwaters near Baker City, the John Day flows unobstructed for 250 plus miles across the state, eventually spilling into the Columbia River, just east of Biggs.

Over the centuries the John Day River has carved open the land to expose ancient history.

Ironically, it’s namesake, an unlucky fur trapper, didn’t travel the river, but rather was robbed at its confluence with the Columbia.

The middle section winds through worldrenowned paleontology sites. The state has branded these routes “The Journey Through Time Scenic Byway”. Perfect for a daytrip.

These blue-grey badlands are an incredibly cool place called The Blue Basin
Trail leading from the Thomas Condon Visitor Center

Our day starts by heading north and east on US-26, about 25 miles past Mitchell, where the road meets up with the John Day River at OR 19.

From here, we follow the river north through the Sheep Rock Unit of the John Day Fossil Beds . . . . with a mandatory stop at the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center.

We are on the John Day Hwy, headed north through the eastern section of the fossil beds. It quickly becomes apparent the Painted Hills aren’t the only uniquely colored earth mounds in Central Oregon. Along the length of this drive cliffwalls shine in hues of blue, green, and red.

We’ll be back to try smallmouth bass and steelhead fishing on the John Day River

At Kimberly, we turn west. For 20 miles the road follows the river, offering numerous public access points along the route.

At Service Creek, the river continues to the west, across mostly private land. We turn south on OR 207, skirting around the eastern edge of Sutton Mountain, to the east of the Painted Hills unit, dropping into the town of Mitchell. At this point we’re back on US-26 and headed home. The day has been spent exploring uniquely colored cliffs and stopping to enjoy rare public access to one of Oregon’s wild rivers.

 

River Levels

Fall colors on the Crooked River

We spend a lot of time on rivers and frequently keep an eye on water levels. An extremely dry summer strained all Central Oregon waterways and in September the BLM drew down the Crooked River . . .  dramatically.

Rivers are measured at regularly intervals along their run. It’s all part of water management. The numbers you see are stream stage (gage height in feet), which are water level, but also a measure of flow volume stated as Cubic Feet per Second (CFS). These numbers project potential water available to downstream irrigators, but also allow users to see seasonal changes to a stream.

Nature’s palette

Late summer flows on the Crooked can drop to 50 CFS from an average of about 130 CFS. September’s BLM draw down was to 10 CFS. This put more water in the irrigation ditches, but caused concern for the fish population.

In fact, they closed the river to fishing for a couple of months. As a result, we began our John Day River excursions and subsequently discovered Small Mouth Bass fishing.

We haven’t been on the Crooked River since the closure, not just because you couldn’t fish, but we dreaded how dramatic the impact might be. This week we braced ourselves and drove to the Crooked to have a look.

Low water exposes the weed beds and sub-surface rocks.

The day we were there, the river was up a bit, at 23 CFS. As expected a lot of river bed was exposed. The Crooked River has never been easy to wade, but now I’ve got a better understanding of why. With so much bottom laid bare, white alkali deposits on rocks mark high water points, and from the remaining water flow to the bank was an exposed jumble of loose shoebox sized stones.

Riparian willow patch

What water was still there snaked between boulders offering only a few deep pools in which fish could hold. A climate disaster observed up close.

This week the levels are coming back up (2.03 ft/48 CFS at this writing), so now we find out how much impact the reduced flow has had.

In a week or two we’ll be back on stream to wet a line and hope the winter snows are deep.