Nature – Page 12

November 13, 2022November 18, 2022

River Levels

We spend a lot of time on rivers and frequently keep an eye on water levels. An extremely dry summer strained all Central Oregon waterways and in September the BLM drew down the Crooked River . . . dramatically.

Rivers are measured at regularly intervals along their run. It’s all part of water management. The numbers you see are stream stage (gage height in feet), which are water level, but also a measure of flow volume stated as Cubic Feet per Second (CFS). These numbers project potential water available to downstream irrigators, but also allow users to see seasonal changes to a stream.

Late summer flows on the Crooked can drop to 50 CFS from an average of about 130 CFS. September’s BLM draw down was to 10 CFS. This put more water in the irrigation ditches, but caused concern for the fish population.

In fact, they closed the river to fishing for a couple of months. As a result, we began our John Day River excursions and subsequently discovered Small Mouth Bass fishing.

We haven’t been on the Crooked River since the closure, not just because you couldn’t fish, but we dreaded how dramatic the impact might be. This week we braced ourselves and drove to the Crooked to have a look.

Low water exposes the weed beds and sub-surface rocks.

The day we were there, the river was up a bit, at 23 CFS. As expected a lot of river bed was exposed. The Crooked River has never been easy to wade, but now I’ve got a better understanding of why. With so much bottom laid bare, white alkali deposits on rocks mark high water points, and from the remaining water flow to the bank was an exposed jumble of loose shoebox sized stones.

What water was still there snaked between boulders offering only a few deep pools in which fish could hold. A climate disaster observed up close.

This week the levels are coming back up (2.03 ft/48 CFS at this writing), so now we find out how much impact the reduced flow has had.

In a week or two we’ll be back on stream to wet a line and hope the winter snows are deep.

October 23, 2022October 22, 2022

Desert Oasis

Between the Cascade range and the Wallowas, basically the northwest corner of the great basin, we wound through swaths of grainfields criss-crossed with two lane roads and dotted with wind turbines.

This flat expanse of Oregon is sliced by a canyon cut by the John Day River.

This portion of Central Oregon was once ranchland, a “… continuous expanse of native shrub-steppe habitat.” While the wind and wheat farms have transformed the land, the river continues, free flowing.

A Wild and Scenic Waterway status helped conservation groups give protection to stretches of the river and aided their attempt to re-invigorate a wild Steelhead run.

You can see the lush canyons of the John Day from many vantage points along it’s two hundred mile plus length, but access to the river is difficult without a boat.

Forty miles upriver from the Columbia OR 206 crosses the John Day where the Murtha Ranch used to sit.

In 2013, sixteen miles of that ranch along the north bank became Cottonwood Canyon State Park. A handful of this 16 thousand acre parcel holds camping, cabins and day use sites.

It’s nearly a three hour drive from Bend, almost to the Columbia River.

But the park offers excellent river access and small mouth bass fishing. In the fall there are few visitors, so we took advantage of an empty picnic site.

Then spent the afternoon catching bass and enjoying this beautiful and quiet stretch of the John Day River.

October 9, 2022October 9, 2022

Bass Fishing the John Day River

Priest Hole is a primitive site along the John Day Wild and Scenic River. The nearest town is 45 minutes away … so you are on your own here.

If you exclude the Deschutes River bridge at Shears Falls, the John Day River is likely the river we have crossed the most. It is also least fished. This week we fixed that.

The John Day River travels, undammed 280+ miles from it’s headwaters. It’s summer steelhead run has dwindled because like most Central Oregon rivers, dry years and irrigation pressure has taken a toll.

The flip side of increased average water temperatures is an abundance of Smallmouth Bass. When the climate gives you lemons … go bass fishin’.

Perfect conditions for reeling in smallmouth bass.

I always thought of bass fishing as a subsurface pursuit. Streamers on heavy lines and lots of weed beds to deal with.

Come to find out that is more about Largemouth Bass. On the John Day, Smallmouth repeatedly hit Chubby Chernobyl and Foam Hopper patterns tossed near the river’s grassy edge.

The road to Priest Hole is steep and narrow … it is especially challenging if you meet another vehicle. Beyond the risks, this is an incredible area with amazing river access and stunning views.

Previous encounters with the John Day involved bridge crossings or looking at the bottom of a canyon. JQ made note of a potential access point during a previous crossing. Seemed like a good destination for some warm water fishing. If you’re interested, downstream from Kimberly to Service Creek, about 25 miles, has lots of wadeable access.

Surrounded by the sweet scent of cottonwood trees, it was an idyllic day. The temps were in the low 80’s and both Jack and Tip spent most of their time wading and swimming.

Small Mouth in the John Day can be five pounds though more often they are under a foot in length. Bass aggressively surface feed and put up more fight than their size suggests.

The John Day carves its way though old volcanic flows, creating canyons and exposing geologic layers.

This was the first time I’d actively cast for bass. It won’t be the last, in fact we are are planning a couple more fall excursions in the Clarno and Kimber stretch of the river.

October 2, 2022October 1, 2022

Oregon Geology

This week brought the Fall Equinox, officially ushering in the season. Before the first snow and at the end of tourist season, we plan trips over roads that will soon become impassable. Rockhounding trips get back on the schedule, as the days cool down. This week we headed to Painted Hills.

US 26 West out of Prineville over Ochoco pass takes you through a beautiful pine forest. On the Mitchell side of that pass, high desert sage and juniper plateaus are cut into canyons by the John Day River.

Painted Hills Unit of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument sits just west of Mitchell. The national monument is actually represented by three units each with a visitor center. These points of interest are situated 60 land miles apart. This rather large triangular section in the middle of Oregon is bristling with geological marvels and fossils are only part of that.

Daylight plays across these undulating hills

There are places we revisit seasonally and its been well over a year since we traveled to the Painted Hills. JQ is getting good at capturing High Desert landscapes with her camera, but there are places you need to visit in person to really appreciate them. This region of Oregon is one of them.

Rounded hills made of red, green and yellow layers sparked our interest in this unique landscape. Depending on the time of year or even the time of day, there are different tones to each layer. All of the monument units offer prospective on the ancient inhabitants of this once tropical forest land.

September 25, 2022September 24, 2022

Breath of Fresh Air

Wildfire smoke finally dissipated so we headed east to Summer Lake. We have been waiting for a chance to go birding before waterfowl hunting season.

Cedar Creek Fire still threatens, but a few rainy days and a shift in weather patterns have us breathing easier, literally.

Summer Lake had an afternoon thunderstorm forecast. Ahead of any storm clouds, the valley was mostly basking in late summer sun.

A few migratory flocks were present. We caught a squadron of pelicans lumbering across the sky. Actually we’re so used to raptors and bug eaters darting across a river it gave us pause.

The squadron will hold pretty tight ranks in the air but they are gliders. There are minimal wing flaps which might account for the slow pace they took to pass overhead.

Marshland along the southwest loop road was dry. However, the canals were actively directing water onto land between Windbreak and Bullgate Dikes.

There were a lot of ODFW (Oregon Dept of Fish and Wildlife) workers, but only a couple of cars. Without the worry of someone needing space on the narrow road, we can pull over anytime something is sighted.

One stop was to watched Ibis feeding. We also spotted White-fronted geese whose size is evident by the tiny ducks next to them. They breed near the Arctic Circle and migrate along the Pacific Flyway to winter in freshwater marshes.

The north half of the refuge’s loop road is closed for the season. But it’s easy to drive along Windbreak dike to a camping site on the SE side of the refuge.

As we finished up lunch, the storm clouds were rolling in over Fremont Ridge. Guess it’s time to head home and stay ahead of the rain.