Third Time’s the Charm

A summer sunrise in Central Oregon

An early morning start had us heading towards Paisley and the Chewaucan River.

It’s the third time we’ve attempted this loop route (previously stymied by snowy roads and a knee injury).

Lake Abert on a dead calm day

Paisley is on the southeastern end of Summer Lake, but first we headed to Lake Abert just a few miles further.

There is a decent water level this year

Both of these alkali bodies offer a stop over for migrating birds. The largest concentrations occur in July and August, so it seemed like a good time to swing by.

The lake’s calm surface creates an interesting illusion

In addition to a huge variety of gulls, we spotted Black-necked stilts, Phalaropes, as well as Avocets, both feeding and nesting.

US 395 runs the along the eastern edge and there are frequent turn outs to give you a great view of the mudflats.

Abert looking south from one of many pull-outs.
A mix of shore birds

While we have been here before, the lake’s water level has never been this high, and by assumption that made for higher numbers of birds.

The background gets enhanced by the smoke haze.

A plume of smoke moved through the valley, but we managed to avoid the worst of it, grabbing some images before heading back to Paisley.

What little water makes it past the alfalfa irrigation and into Lake Abert Lake is from the Chewaucan River.

Paisley, home of the Mosquito Festival, sits on the river’s edge.

We turned onto a forest service road that follows the river up the southern end of Winter Ridge  .  .  .  a point from which John Freemont “discovered” the Summer Lake Valley.

Some fire scarred trees along the Chewaucan River

Ironically, the west side of this forested mountain range was consumed in a massive wildfire (Bootleg Fire, 365k acres) in the summer of 2021.

The understory shows signs of recovery, but blackened tree skeletons stand in memorial to the devastation.

Interesting point about wildland fire is how the fingers of a blaze reach into portions of a forest and miss adjacent areas.

The lower reaches of the Chewaucan were on the edge and our route wound in and out of the burned areas. At some high points you get a feel for the expanse of it.

We pulled into a quiet camp site for a lunch break, then continued to head up Winter Ridge. We skirted the edge of Gearhart Mt. Wilderness, and forged on to Bly and the Sprague River Valley.

On the way we discovered an unusual memorial from WWII, the Mitchell Monument Historical site. Apparently, the Japanese attempted to use High-altitude balloons to start fires in an effort to kill US citizens.

The Mitchell family and a group of Sunday school children were the sole casualties from an estimated 9000 balloons launched.

Aftermath of the Bootleg Fire

The USFS route out of the hills was a pothole riddled mess, but once we hit Bly, the roads improved and we had a very enjoyable journey along the slow moving Sprague River.

We then joined up with Highway 97 and cruised back up towards Bend.

A Day Trip

Just a hint of smoke on the horizon

At times these past few weeks, it seemed that all of Oregon was burning. So this week we attempted to see if that was true.

It’s not. At least not the entire state.

However, here in the high desert we are regularly covered in a plume of smoke.

We began our trip before dawn  .  .  .  an early start to a long loop route.

First stop, Cottonwood Canyon Day Use with enough time for some small mouth bass fishing.

Off to do a bit of fishing

This is one of our favorite spots,. Set in a canyon on the last few miles of the John Day, the river meanders across the northern third of the state.

Upstream, the John Day River, at Cottonwood Canyon SP

The morning was mostly smoke-free with cool morning temperatures.

A Yellowjacket mid flight
Sharing lunch with local wildlife

The day use space at Cottonwood was empty and offered plenty of shade. We set up chairs and took in the quiet.

The next leg was east toward Service Creek, another point along the river.

Finding the best route home

This brought us to the western edge of a group of active wildfires, Lone Rock (137k acres), Monkey Creek (176k acres), and Courtrock (20k acres).

The turn south at Service Creek was literally the last piece of Highway 19 east still open.

There are always interesting bits of geology along Oregon highways

It was as far as we intended to go, but we did cross our fingers that we’d be able to get on State 207 and find a route to Mitchell.

By the time we’d pass Waldron Schoolhouse , the smoke had cleared and the traffic was light. We enjoyed the drive down to the Twickenham Road and the eastern border of Sutton Mountain.

The Painted Hills under clear skys

At Mitchell we connected with Highway 26, and then took a short detour to visit the Painted Hills Unit.

We’ve been there numerous times, but this is a stop that is always worth the effort.

From there it’s back onto 26 over Ochoco Pass and dinner at the Tastee Treet.

A burger dinner on the Crooked River seemed a good way to end our day.

 

 

A Mountain Loop

Davis Lake with Mt. Washington in the background

We spent this week under a heat dome. Not as bad as the southwest, but still a snow-melting stretch of weather. So we toured the Cascade Lakes Highway.

The edge of a lava flow, Jack & Tip for scale

We do this loop a couple of times a year, that is, the whole route around Bachelor. Sunriver to Crescent.

In this case, the opposite direction is a great early summer drive with lots of places to stop, walk around, and take photos.

Davis, Wickiup, and Crane Prairie are full from runoff, which is better than it’s been the last few years.

Most of the snow has receded to the highest points. We’ve made this trip in late May and snow banks frequently line the highway  .  .  .  but not this time.

Near the head waters of the Deschutes River

The meadows and marshes are a vibrant green, but not yet filled with wildflowers. That will have to be another trip.

Typically one of the stops is just below Lava Lake, at the head waters of the Deschutes River. However, the stop was brief as the mosquitoes were thick and hungry.

The closer you get to Bachelor, the more cars are encountered, so we rarely venture past Lava Lake.

Sparks Lake meadow and Mt. Bachelor

The summer fishing is good and the shade is cool along the Upper Deschutes, as summers heat comes on full roar.

 

A Different Road Taken

Looking south from refuge toward Summer Lake

The Fremont Highway will take you right by Summer Lake, so we drive that route frequently. Usually only as far as the refuge, but this week we kept on going.

Past the southern end of Summer Lake sits the tiny town of Paisley. If you stay on Highway 31 for another 30 miles you’ll run into 395 and that  eventually gets you to Reno, Nevada.

Instead, we took a hard right in the middle of Paisley, heading up into the Fremont Forest along the Chewaucan River.

The initial plan was to run up the back side of Winter Ridge and come out at Silver Lake.

The Chewaucan is a beautiful little stream, we’ll definitely be back to fish. We’d explored the northern portion out to Fremont Point and got a spectacular view of Summer Lake Valley

The Chewaucan River cuts through a meadow

The canyon cut by the Chewaucan winds south through pine forests, past numerous camp sites and side creeks, eventually running into USFS 28. This road traverses the top of Winter Ridge and would, in theory, lead to Silver Lake.

I say in theory because we didn’t calculate snow pack and got turned back by blocked roadways.

Remnants of a 2022 wildfire

Plans changed and we headed south to Dairy Creek and around Quartz Mountain intent on meeting up with State 140, Klamath Falls Highway. Foiled again by snow covered roadways, we retraced our route.

A JQ angle on dandelions

Undaunted, we’ll return to this area and complete the loop once the snowy grip of winter has been removed.

Face to the Sky

Weather has taken a toll on this fence post.

It seems that weather, or the discussion of weather takes up disproportionate space on this blog. Perhaps not on par with fishing, but close.

This can be attributed to a couple of things, really. When you’re going outside the weather is part of the process. However, when that outside is on the high desert, the weather becomes the view.

Layers of storm clouds fill our view east

Since moving to Central Oregon, we’ve noticed that you can literally watch the weather. Not just the weather you’re in, but all those storm cells moving about you.

Winter still has a hold on the high country, but winter wheat has turned fields green

Get up on a butte and it’s 360 degrees of weather. We were used to small openings through groves of Doug Fir. Doesn’t really matter because that weather was typically hitting against your hat.

Clusters of clouds float across the sky

Drove ’97 North this week. As you finish the grade to the Cow Canyon Rest Area, just past South Junction Road, the horizon line drops to a constant lower third. The other two thirds is sky and this trip we got lucky with the weather filling all that space.

John Day River Canyon walls are covered with fresh spring growth

Half a dozen storm systems were scattered about. Directly above us white streaks of Cirrus filtered the sunshine. Blackish thunder heads trailing gray curtains of rain bumped against the Cascades.

It’s raining over there.

To the East, less ominous but more abundant fronts hung behind projections  of windmills and grain elevators.

After the sun sets there are additional perks to being on this side of the Cascades. It’s our impression that Central Oregon experiences more cloudless days than the place we moved from.

A Cottonwood Canyon State Park vista

Regardless, the vista is wider, even at the bottom of a river canyon.

Cabin lights under a star filled sky

This particular April evening offered excellent star gazing. You just had to scoot chairs off the cabin porch. Constellations I’m familiar with got lost in a night sky filled with the stars not visible in an urban settling.

Never get tired of that view

Constellations I’m familiar with got lost in a night sky filled with the stars not visible in an urban settling.

Looking east  .  .  .  the constellation Hercules might be there on the left.

Much like birding, identification isn’t critical to enjoying the moment. We regularly cast an eye to the night, or early morning sky. On this trip JQ braved the early morning cold and got some excellent images.

If the weather is right you can turn your face to the sky and see all kinds of wondrous views.