Travel – Page 9

May 2, 2021May 1, 2021

A Blue Basin

We visited a beautiful, overlooked wonder at the John Day Fossil Beds … Blue Basin.

Oregon has an abundance of natural wonders and otherworldly places. Most of these destinations are an easy drive from our house. Thus we are making it a point to visiting as many as possible.

This week we headed back to the John Day Fossil Beds. We drove past Mitchell about 30 miles to the Sheep Rock Unit. The “Thomas Condon Paleontology Center” is located here. A recently constructed visitor building (open Fri, Sat, & Sun.) has the mandatory gift shop but also some excellent interpretive displays that detail the site’s history and fossils.

However, today we are headed to the north edge of the Sheep Rock Unit and the Blue Basin.

Sage brush dots the hills as we hiked our way into the heart of the basin.

There is a 4 mile loop trail that takes you to an overlook or a shorter 2 mile walk “trail through time” that follows the lower edge of the basin’s sculpted walls.

The shorter trail takes you into the canyon. Interpretive panels and fossil replicas are spaced throughout the trail.

A total of 13 metal grated surface bridges make it difficult on dog’s paws. Jack managed to carry Tip over several before they both called it quits.

Dogs are allowed (leashed) on the trail. However, there are a series of bridges crossing the ravine bottom decked with a paw-poking metal grates.

Tip wanted nothing to do with these and the alternate routes were just too precarious. He and I did make it to the entrance of the basin, found a shaded bench to wait while JQ, camera in hand, documented the blue-green canyon for our blog.

A mere 44 million years ago this place was a tropical forest filled with lush vegetation (172 species) abundant wildlife including three toed horses and saber tooth tigers. Then 7 million years ago a volcano spewed hot ash and gas over a 13,000 square mile area. The event brought devastation to the plant and animal life but encased a treasure trove for 20th century geology and paleontology.

These fossil beds, exposed by erosion, contain saber-toothed nimravids, three-toed horses, tortoises and dogs.

Vegetation from that landscape turned into a unique blue-green soil that eventually eroded into what is now the Blue Basin. The Painted Hills site, it’s red and green layered hills seems to garner the most attention and is definitely a must see. However, Blue Basin is equally as fascinating and well worth the additional 30 minute drive.

April 4, 2021April 3, 2021

Finding Feathers

Clean up of the Holiday Farm Fire includes felling thousands of trees and stabilizing hillsides. Some areas are little more than ash and rubble.

This week we drove through a wildfire, or rather the aftermath of one of the many forest fires that burned Oregon last summer. 2020 was the most destructive fire season on record in the state.

Highway 126 winds along the McKenzie River

On this day we followed Highway 126 along the Mckenzie River and drove through the middle of the Holiday Farm Fire.

This blaze started on the sixth of September and when it was finally contained. 65 days later, it had burned 175 thousand acres, destroyed 760 structures and killed one person.

The magnitude of this, or any wildfire, is not completely captured by news accounts. Even video reports don’t give you a prospective on how much 175,000 acres burned is really, nor how arbitrary the destruction.

There were plots of ground leveled to bare foundation sitting next to houses untouched by fire. This went on for miles as we drove past the ongoing clean up efforts.

Eight months later they are still clearing debris and felling damaged trees as they attempt a return to regular life. However, there are also a lot of people getting out and lots of properties are ‘on the market’.

We were on this road heading west to Eugene to locate flytying supplies. I’ll admit that tying the flies used in fishing may not be a money saving prospect. Hobbies are rarely a path to frugal endeavors. This house is engaged in a number of hobbies that require regular re-supply and flyfishing is just one of them.

The pandemic has moved the acquisition of materials to online sources but there are also some issues with that. The major issue for a flytyer is some of the bits attached to hooks need a color match.

While there is no shortage of online sources for these materials this isn’t the best method for choosing the “proper” item. I find it necessary, particularly with feathers, to make these choices in person.

The pandemic also exacerbated the supply chain. It’s kind of important to support local fly shops but this supply chain issue has greatly reduced materials at our local shops. In the case of hackle feathers the choice is none. So the answer to this dilemma is a road trip to one of Oregon’s great supply centers The Caddis Fly Shop in Eugene. This place had a wall of hackle choices and of course a number of other essential items. then back on the road and home but this time via Willamette pass Highway 58.

March 28, 2021March 27, 2021

In the Flyway

More than half of the 650 species of birds in North America migrate. The westernmost edge of North America is the Pacific Flyway and includes coastal plains, the valleys on the west side of the cascade range, and also marsh and wetlands in Central Oregon.

Summer Lake Wildlife Refuge is one of three major stopping points along the Pacific Flyway and happens to be an hour’s drive from our house. The marshes on the north end of the Summer Lake Valley are an excellent spot for birding.

Binoculars, the extra long camera lens and of course “Shirley Birds West” … a favorite guide book … are primary tools in our bird watching. However, recently we discovered a couple of online tools that are invaluable.

Bring up BirdCast on your browser and you’ll get an animated map of current bird migrations. There are also some interesting forecasting tools here as well. But the best tools come out of Cornel University. It’s eBird web page is packed with helpful goodies.

There are species specific maps that show monthly migration patterns. Which will help predict when the Evening Grosbeaks will be showing up at the feeder.

We used this as an identification aid when trying to figure out which species of swan was sitting on the water at Summer Lake.

Tundra swans have entirely white plumage and their bill is mostly black.

It’s spring so naturally we are making somewhat regular trips to the Summer Lake Wildlife Refuge. This week we were greeted with hundreds of swans. The question is Trumpeter or Tundra … it’s not an easy ID … we think they were Tundra.

The Cornell site also has an application where you can set up an account and track of what birds you’ve seen, get a list of the types of birds most likely to be in a specific area and find out what other birders are seeing.

There is also a mobile app that turns your smart phone into a bird identification tool and even plays song/call recordings.

March 21, 2021March 21, 2021

Waiting on Spring

A wind advisory (gusts of 85 mph) for Summer Lake killed any plans to visit the wildlife refuge.

All the signs point to the start of spring. However, the weather or rather the constant changes in the weather continue to upset our plans.

During the last few weeks we woke to snow three times and daily temps in or near 60º twice. That’s in one ten day stretch.

Winter keeps a grudging hold on us as Spring taunts us from the sidelines. We’ve managed to get on the river a couple of times during those warmer days. But each morning it’s a new forecast and shifts the day’s travel plans.

All winter the snows have been frequent but rarely more than a couple of inches and have always melted away in a week’s time, or less.

Past winters have seen a foot or more of snow sticking for weeks, but not this year. That may be why it’s so frustrating to plan a road trip. Destination set and then you wake to iced roads or the threat of a snow dump. For some reason the weather people are having a hard time forecasting more than a day or two in advance.

Saturday (3/20/21) was officially the start of Spring and for now that’s reflected in the forecasts. We continue to add locations to our itinerary and pack for a variety of weather … that’s just Central Oregon … but it has been a slow month as occasional sunny days hint at the potential for a real winter thaw.

March 7, 2021March 6, 2021

The Off Season

Trails edge the Crooked on both sides of the river.

Fly fishing makes up a major portion of our weekly excursions and winter weather can add some difficulty to our plans.

Late fall typically marks the end of the regular fishing season. Fortunately Oregon has waters that remain open year round. Fish don’t stop feeding when the snows come and the lakes freeze. Bug hatches still occur regularly, you just use smaller patterns or fish imitations of insects found subsurface.

The biggest adjustment to off season fishing is you need to layer up before going to the stream. A near freezing morning on a typical cloudless Central Oregon day can warm to shirtsleeve temperatures by afternoon. Fingerless gloves are also an essential addition to the ensemble.

Three streams with access all year are the Fall River, Deschutes River (middle and lower stretches) and the Crooked River.

When the temperature drops we might have to hike though a blanket of snow to get to the water.

The Fall River is a beautiful spring-fed stream flowing through rolling pine forest. It is open to fly fishing only and features brook, brown, and rainbow trout.

As for the snow Central Oregon is blessed with more clear than cloudy days. While Bend and La Pine can get accumulations of two or more feet, our roads are well maintained and in just a couple of clear days any snow pack is reduced at lower elevations.

The Deschutes and Crooked Rivers run through basalt column canyons that are sparsely timbered. This exposure to the sun seems to keep river banks clear of snow.

Closer to home, the Fall River wanders through a forested landscape and it’s banks hold snow much longer.

The river is a few hundred steps off a well traveled road with numerous pullouts and a clearly marked walking path runs along both banks.

Adding a splash of whiskey to hot coffee or cocoa is a regular winter treat.

The winter weather hasn’t been a deterrent in getting out. January cold spells mean we bundle up and add a shot of whiskey to the cocoa for extra oomph. We still like to enjoy the days outside.